Brunch has always been a pet peeve of mine. I mean, what is it really but a slightly fancier version of breakfast at inflated prices -- and it's not served until usually after 11 in the mornings -- and only on weekends. What a scam! I'll take breakfast any day over brunch -- especially on weekends. Here are some of my favorite restaurants for breakfast, not brunch.
Bubby's, 120 Hudson St., at North Moore Street (tel. 212/219-0666; www.bubbys.com). I don't usually order grits north of the Mason-Dixon line, but I make an exception at Bubby's. They are the perfect complement to Bubby's Breakfast: two eggs, toast, bacon, and a cup of Joe. Open at 8am Monday through Friday and 9am Saturday and Sunday.
EJ's Luncheonette, 447 Amsterdam Ave., between 81st and 82nd streets, (tel. 212/873-3444). The Greek diners that served incredibly cheap breakfasts were everywhere when I first moved to Manhattan, but I'm afraid they've gone the way of the Checker cab (practically extinct). In their place you will find retro-diners like EJ's that try to replicate the legendary breakfasts of those diners. And in reality, the breakfasts at the retro-diners, though not as cheap, are better than what I remember. At EJ's, the banana-pecan pancakes are so good you might want to return and have them for dinner. Opens at 8:30 am daily.
Good Enough to Eat, 483 Amsterdam Ave., between 83rd and 84th streets (tel. 212/496-0163; www.citysearch.com/nyc/goodenough). The wait for breakfast at this Upper West Side institution on the weekends is ridiculous. So try to go during the week when you can leisurely gorge on pumpkin French toast; a "Wall Street" omelet, baked honey-mustard glazed ham with Vermont cheddar; or "Peter Paul" pancakes, filled with Belgian chocolate chips, coconut, and topped with roasted coconut. I'm getting hungry writing this. Opens at 8am Monday through Friday and 9am Saturday and Sunday.
New Big Wong, 67 Mott St., between Canal and Bayard streets (tel. 212/964-1452). No eggs. No coffee. No pancakes. Can this be breakfast? You bet it is. Not much is more satisfying in the morning than a hot bowl of congee (rice porridge with either pork, beef, or shrimp) accompanied with a fried cruller and tea served in a glass. It might sound a little unusual, but you won't be alone; Big Wong is a favorite for breakfast among the residents of Chinatown. Opens daily at 8:30 am.
Norma's At Le Parker Meridien hotel, 118 W. 57th St. (btwn Sixth and Seventh aves.). tel. 212/708-7460. A glorious ode to the ultimate comfort food. It's pricey, but worth it for classics done with style and creativity.
Veselka, 144 Second Ave., at 9th Street (tel. 212/228-9682). The Greek diner might be extinct in Manhattan, but this Ukrainian diner lives on. And we are all very grateful because New York just would not be the same without Veselka's buckwheat pancakes and cheese blintzes. Open 24 hours.
